Schmick: Australian informal; smart or stylish . . . which pretty well describes Grand Bar and Bistro upstairs at Grand Central Park, where you can enjoy an elevated view of the Terrace at night in elegant 1980s New York sophistication.

The food's fairly schmick, too, although without any modernist grandstanding. Chef Allan Nutty is, after all, classically trained and his presentation is more restrained than some of the whimsically architectural dishes around the place.